You Have to See This: Tiny Souls


Howdy Gang - This is the first post in a new weekly segment. It's purpose is to get you to other great corners of the internet that I have found inform or expand my interest in the hobby or art in general.

To kick things off, I want to direct your attention to one of my favorite painters - Zordana. Her site is called Tiny Souls and it is not to be missed. She recently redesigned it's format and you can find a link to her archives in the siderbar of the new site. There's a bunch of great material and beautiful images of her work.

Check her out: Tiny Souls

Weekly Update: Stegadons, Orcs, and Blog Revamps - oh my!

This was a productive week. I took some time to work on the blog - that involved some HTML and Javascript lessons. Awesome... I should be at about the skill level of a 13 year old MySpace addict now. My humiliation is the blog's gain! *AHEM* check the slick favicon *ahem* *cough*

Warhammer Fantasy Savage Orc Command

Here are the beginnings of some Savage Orc Command models for Warhammer Fantasy. I wasn't a big fan of the more recent O&G designs, but these guys aren't bad. At least they're wearing an animal... Wish I could pull this look off around work. These were actually begun with the leftover paint in the tray from the big fella below.


Warhammery Fantasy

I'm not a big fan of this model and initially bought the new kit for some of the other plastic parts on the sprue, but after taking a closer look, I decided on a master plan that has now been set in motion.... Mwu ha ha ha ha. This is a shot of my converted Stegadon after the first couple of washes. Extensive putty work was done to add length to the legs so that this fine gentleman will be rearing up off his base. The head and neck was also heavily altered so that the face is turned outward in a more dramatic pose. I'm going to incorporate pieces of both the old and new howdah to finish this guy. Big plans... stay tuned!

Here are some more shots of the work in progress:





detail of head of StegadonDetail of hide of Stegadon

You can see how keeping your paints thin in the first few initial washes really helps start building a nice tonality to the piece. The recessed areas take in more paint and become shadowed; this needs to be carefully controlled while applying though or there will be a mess!

Converted 6th edition Stegadon Engine of the Gods

My previous edition Stegadon is readied for some serious painting as well. I liked the look of some of the new kit's parts on him, so here's a converted Engine of the Gods Design.

Tutorial: Mordor Troll

My goal in writing this is to give you an idea of my working and thought processes as a project like the Mordor Troll comes together.

As always, the model was primed white. I like both Krylon and Games Workshop spray primer, but I like the price of the former much better and used it on this project. This excellent website is a great visual reference for anything from the films and I used it again here: Lord of the Rings Image Library

Painting on the troll began with a series of controlled dark brown washes on the flesh areas. By controlled, I mean that large pools of color in places where they didn’t belong were removed with a separate dry brush that’s readied at the side of my painting area for that purpose. Thin your paint considerably – I go about 20% pigment to water, but it’s a very touchy-feely process depending on the color and will come better with experience. Getting the hang of doing clean work with thinned paint isn’t easy, but it will pay dividends once you start to master it. Think about these initial layers as your first chance to describe the model. Brush strokes should match the movement of the area being painted. For instance, paint laterally across a bulging stomach or beefy thigh; don’t just slop on a wash without thinking about how the paint is being applied and settling onto your model. The troll's back was washed an additional time to deepen the crevasses and complete the initial coloring.

black and white detail of Mordor Troll leg

I like starting from white and washing on the first few base coats because it immediately gives the model some life and quality to the paint coverage. Now that there was a rich brown base, I started building up the highlights on the skin. My paint is always thinned to about the consistency of whole milk, but not to the point of the beginning washes. The model is nicely sculpted and it's fairly clear where areas of light and shadow should go. Generally all but the most recessed areas were painted with a slightly lighter shade than the wash. Increasingly smaller surface areas were painted with increasingly lighter shades - almost like a topographical map. Where the transition wasn't smooth, I mixed up a glaze of about 30% gel medium, 40% water, and 30% paint. This was brushed on thinly and smoothly to help even out and blend the highlights together. Then, if needed, more highlights were brought back on top of this glaze. You can see the product of this in the skin tones of the face and arms of the troll. Again, let the paint help describe the shape of the model when you apply it - almost like a wire frame model. For example, the paint was applied laterally around the legs like a mummy would be wrapped. This helps define the shape of the object being painted. Take a look at the picture above left. I thought this was easier to see in black and white.


Next up was the armor. I used metallic paints, but still applied them in a non-metallic fashion in order to heighten the effect of the highlights. All the armor areas were first base coated with a bright orange. Yes - it looks terrible at first, but helps to eventually give the appearance of well-worn metal when thin metallic layers are painted over it. This was coated with GW Chainmail mixed with a small amount of black. The small pieces of the armor that I felt would receive the most wear were left orange. Paying attention to where the light would strike the figure, I highlighted up to a mix of about 1:1 Mithril silver and white. Areas that needed a bit more shadow were glazed with a mix of dark brown and black.

Details of the model were then painted. These include the fabric of the troll's tattered blue rags, gloves, and leather belts and buckles. All were done with an awareness of how light would spill across the model. The parts that would be most exposed to light were slowly brought up to a lighter shade.





I worked on the base separately. It was built up with modeling clay and covered with sand and small pebbles. A rider of Rohan was lightly converted and placed where he could be easily crushed by the pitiless metal troll. This was all primed white. Take a look at my previous basing tutorial here for some more ideas. Birch seed pods were broken apart and used for the leaf clutter. There's some great information here. Now's the time to find them outdoors - so hit those local parks! The troll was pinned into both points where his feet touch the base and a small bit of heavy duty epoxy was used to make sure he wasn't going anywhere.

I hope this gives you some insight into the model. Some pictures will be coming soon!

Weekly Update: My favorite part of Mordor


Fully painted Mordor Troll from the Games Workshop Lord of the Rings range

Giant trolls. They're tough to beat if you're looking for big and ugly. While their rules in War of the Ring make them a bit soft, the fellow below will soon pretty-up a table for as long as he lasts.

The Mordor Troll is a great model and a blast to paint. This project was begun and finished in about one week of heavy painting. The more recent plastic troll kits give you plenty of options, but none beat the more detailed sculpt of this metal giant. It's just unfortunate that he was one of the severe casualties of the recent GW price increase. If you can find one of these guys for less than the ludicrous amount those citrus suckers are asking, pick one up! I didn't take great work-in-progress pics for this effort, but a tutorial post will be coming soon.